If you've just seen the b1005 harley code pop upward on your odometer, you're likely staring in a fuel measure that's acting like it has the mind of its own. It's a single of those irritating electronic hiccups that will can happen to almost any Harley-Davidson model, from a Sportster to a full-on Ultra Classic. Basically, your bike is telling you how the communication between the fuel tank and the speedometer has strike a snag. It's not going to leave a person stranded quietly of the road—at least not directly—but it sure makes this hard to know whenever you need to over for a fill-up.
Exactly what Does This Code Actually Mean?
In terminology, the particular b1005 harley code means "Fuel Level Sending Device High/Open. " I know that sounds like a bunch associated with shop talk, but it's simpler than it looks. Your own fuel sender is usually a little float in the gas container that moves up and down as the gas level changes. It sends the signal to your gauge. When the code says "High/Open, " it means the computer is seeing too much level of resistance or even a complete split in the outlet.
Think of it just like a garden hose. When you kink the hose or someone cuts it, the water stops moving. In this case, the "water" is definitely the electrical signal. If a wire snaps or the connector comes free, the signal can't get through, the resistance goes through the top, and the particular computer throws the B1005 flag.
Common Symptoms You'll Notice
Usually, you don't even need a code reader to know something happens to be wrong. The bike usually provides you several indications before you also check the diagnostics.
- The particular Stuck Gauge: Your energy needle might end up being pinned at "Full" even though you've been riding for three hours, or it may be sitting at "Empty" with a fresh tank of 91 octane.
- The lower Fuel Lighting: That little amber light might stay on constantly, mocking a person while you understand the tank is full.
- Inconsistent Movement: Sometimes the hook bounces around such as it's listening in order to heavy metal. It'll go from half a tank to empty and returning in a matter of seconds.
- The Check Engine Light: On many Harleys, a B-series code (which stands for Body/Electrical) will result in the yellow motor silhouette on your dash.
Where to Start Searching for the Problem
Before going out and buy an entire brand-new fuel pump assembly, you've got in order to do a little detective work. Harleys vibrate—a lot. That's part associated with the charm, but it's also the main reason wires obtain pinched, frayed, or shaken loose.
Check the Fittings First
The most common culprit for the b1005 harley code isn't actually a broken part; it's just a bad connection. There is usually the multi-pin connector nestled under the seat or even right behind the back of the fuel tank. This plug connects the mechanical fuel pump and sender set up to the primary wiring harness.
Pop your chair off and look for any wires that look such as they've been rubbed raw. Road salt, rain, and pressure washers can get moisture into these plugs, causing deterioration. If you observe green or white crusty stuff inside the plug, you've found your problem. The little bit associated with contact cleaner and even some dielectric oil can often repair the code with out costing you a dime.
The particular Wiring Under the particular Tank
When the plug looks clean, the following step is checking the wires leading in to the top of the tank. On a lot of Dyna and Softail models, the cables are tucked pretty tight. As time passes, these people can rub against the frame. If the insulation wears down and the wire touches the frame, or if it just snaps from the constant gerüttel, you'll get that "Open" circuit indication that creates the B1005.
Testing the particular Sending Unit
If the wiring appears solid, it's period to bust out the particular multimeter. You don't need to be an electrical engineer in order to do this, but you do need to be careful since you're working close to gasoline.
You'll want to set your multimeter in order to Ohms (resistance). By probing the hooks coming out associated with the fuel container (refer to your specific year's support manual that pins do what), a person can see when the sender is definitely actually working. Generally, a full container should show low resistance, and an empty tank need to show high opposition. If your meter reads "OL" (Open Loop), then the particular sender inside the particular tank is toast.
The Gas Float Issue
Sometimes the electronics are fine, yet the mechanical component is stuck. The fuel sender utilizes a float on the metal arm. Sometimes, these can get stuck on the fuel series within the tank or just get gummed up with old, nasty gas if the bike has already been sitting for a long time. In case the float can't move, the signal stays the same, and the ECM ultimately realizes something is fishy and throws the code.
The way to Clear the B1005 Harley Code
Once a person think you've fixed the issue, you'll want to clean the code in order to see if this comes back. You don't need a fancy computer to perform this on most Harleys built in the last twenty years.
- Turn your own ignition to "Off" and make certain the "Run/Stop" change is in the "Run" position.
- Press and hold the particular trip odometer reset button.
- While holding the button, turn the ignition to "On. "
- The speedometer needle should mop, and the electronic display will show "Diag. "
- Release the key, then press this again to routine through the quests (PSSpt). "S" generally represents the Speedometer/Gauges, which is where the B1005 lives.
- Hold the switch down when you see the module with the code to read this.
- To clean it, keep the key down again until it says "Clear. "
When you've fixed the wiring or replaced the sensor, the particular code shouldn't pop back up. If it comes back immediately, you've still got an electrical break someplace in the line.
When to Contact in an expert
I'm all for DIY, but working inside a gasoline tank isn't everyone's cup of herbal tea. If the problem is definitely the particular sending unit alone, you usually need to pull the mechanical fuel pump assembly out of the top or bottom of the tank. This involves dealing with fuel lines, sealing gaskets (which must always be replaced), and the risk of scratch your paint.
If you aren't comfortable messing with gasoline tabs and plastic clips inside a dark gas container, it might become worth taking it to a local self-employed shop. It's generally an one-to-two-hour job for a pro who has the right snap-ring pliers plus replacement seals on hand.
Conclusions on the B1005 Code
With the end associated with the day, the particular b1005 harley code is even more of the nuisance than a nightmare. Your bike will still start, it is going to still roar down the motorway, and it won't hurt the motor. But nobody enjoys guessing how much gas they have left, especially when you're out in the middle of no place on a lengthy Sunday ride.
Take 10 minutes to verify the plug below your seat. Even more often than not, a quick wiggle or a shot of electrical cleaner is all it takes to get that will fuel gauge back in action. Just remember to be patient along with the wiring—Harley electrical systems could be a little bit finicky, but once you find that one pinched cable, it's an extremely pleasing fix. Keep the bright side up and your gas tank (digitally) full!